#Mdumbi #Backpackers #camping #thelazycampers
Mdumbi Backpackers is set in the picturesque undulating mountains of the Transkei in South Africa. It is flanked by the warm Mozambique current of the cerulean Indian ocean and is a holiday maker’s paradise. Mdumbi offers charming little rondavels, quaint wooden cabins, cosy bunk houses and an inviting camping area. If you are looking for a remote area to go camping, Mdumbi is your spot.
Some of the beauties of camping at Mdumbi are that the Backpackers is proudly perched on top of a majestic hill sporting a fantastic view of the ocean and the surrounding green hills. Secondly, the quaint bay nestled in the mountains below the backpackers is the perfect place for swimming, taking peaceful walks along the beach, fishing, suntanning and beach sports. In the busy season this quiet bay has lifeguards to ensure the safety of all it’s holidaymakers.
The campsites at Mdumbi are really affordable at R75pp/pn and are laid out on a terraced slope in square semi-sheltered sites, which allow for a little privacy. All sites are neatly mowed and beautifully maintained, have access to an electrical power point and quite a few sites have lovely trees providing much appreciated shade. At the top of the camping area there is a ship-shaped jungle-gym to keep the kids entertained and an elevated wooden lookout point which is a great spot to watch the sun rising/setting.
We camped at Mdumbi for three nights over the Easter Weekend of 2016 with friends and family and had a wonderful long weekend. This was our second time camping at Mdumbi and it was just as good the second time as it was the first. We had previously camped at Mdumbi six years prior to March 2016 and we were just as blown away by the peacefulness and beauty of the area as we were the first time we visited. I have to admit that on this trip we were rather lazy. We spent most of our time on the beach below the backpackers. We took a day trip to Coffee Bay on the Saturday and lazed on their beaches and had lunch at the local pizza house. We watched the sunset (but were still asleep for sunrise) from the cliff in front of the backpackers or on top of the wooden lookout point. In the evenings we had a braai or put on a potjie but mostly we spent our time using the beautiful setting to catch up with friends and family who we don’t often see.
The backpackers offers three meals a day so if you do not feel like making food while you are on holiday you can book and eat all your meals from the Mdumbi kitchen. We booked ourselves in for one of the dinners and enjoyed a scrumptious South African meal of mealie bread, chicken stew and salad.
On the other hand, if you would like to cook up a storm the communal kitchen facilities are large and have indoor tables as well as gas stoves and washing up sinks. These kitchens are cleaned daily, however, you are encouraged to clean up after yourself and wash all your own dishes as the ladies who clean the kitchen have a lot of other work to do during the day. There are also two large fridges and a large chest freezer available for you to make use of, however, if you are able to make your own plan for keeping things cold I suggest you do this. With so many people going in and out of the fridges and not closing the doors properly we had quite a large amount of fresh food spoil.
Mdumbi also makes an effort to do their part for the environment by having multiple recycling facilities, you are encouraged to make use of these facilities (and to use them properly) and help them to preserve their beautiful natural environment.
On the other hand, if you would like to cook up a storm the communal kitchen facilities are large and have indoor tables as well as gas stoves and washing up sinks. These kitchens are cleaned daily, however, you are encouraged to clean up after yourself and wash all your own dishes as the ladies who clean the kitchen have a lot of other work to do during the day. There are also two large fridges and a large chest freezer available for you to make use of, however, if you are able to make your own plan for keeping things cold I suggest you do this. With so many people going in and out of the fridges and not closing the doors properly we had quite a large amount of fresh food spoil.
Mdumbi also makes an effort to do their part for the environment by having multiple recycling facilities, you are encouraged to make use of these facilities (and to use them properly) and help them to preserve their beautiful natural environment.
Things to do (other than spending the day lazing on the gorgeous beaches):
- Book a canoe trip up the Mdumbi River: paddle up between the mountains and lose yourself in the idyllic scenery.
- Drive to Coffee Bay to go to Papazela’s Pizza place: Papazela’s is set into the mountainside and boasts a fantastic view of Coffee Bay. Be sure to try their homemade chilli sauce. +- 30min drive from Mdumbi.
- Drive to Hole in the Wall to see the impressive ocean arch created by wave erosion. There is no need to get a guide, just drive along the dirt road and follow the signs. Hole in the Wall is about an hour’s drive from Mdumbi but well worth the trip, especially if you make a day trip of it.
- Take a walk along the hills or the beach (enquire at Mdumbi reception where the best place to walk would be).
- Take a stroll to the lookout point on the edge of the cliff. This point is conveniently situated so that you could either take your coffee/tea and rusks to enjoy the brilliant sunrise or take a drink and some snacks and enjoy a romantic sunset.
The Transkei in general is quite a remote area and very rural. The people in these areas make many efforts to earn an honest income so remember to support the locals who are selling beaded items. Beads make a wonderful keepsake or gift for a friend.
Another one of the wonderful things about visiting the Transkei is the availability of fresh crayfish, however, do not buy crayfish out of season or if they are smaller than the legal size (Mdumbi has all this info available so please educate yourself before embarking on a crayfish buying mission). It is important to look after the local ecosystems so that we can frequent these magical places for many years to come and enjoy everything they have to offer.
Two things to be aware of when visiting Mdumbi (or even Coffee Bay):
The first is that there are no grocery stores or petrol stations near by. The last grocery store/petrol station stop is just after you come off the N2 which is about 45-60min away from your destination, so make sure you are fully stocked or are prepared to make the long drive back. The second thing is to be vigilant when driving once you have left the N2. All roads are accessible by the average car (no 4X4 required), however, you do need to drive responsibly and watch out for pot-holes as well as animals (this includes dogs, cows, sheep, goats, donkeys, pigs and chickens). You cannot be in a rush to get to your destination - besides you have reached the Transkei, slow down and take in the gorgeous landscape.
The first is that there are no grocery stores or petrol stations near by. The last grocery store/petrol station stop is just after you come off the N2 which is about 45-60min away from your destination, so make sure you are fully stocked or are prepared to make the long drive back. The second thing is to be vigilant when driving once you have left the N2. All roads are accessible by the average car (no 4X4 required), however, you do need to drive responsibly and watch out for pot-holes as well as animals (this includes dogs, cows, sheep, goats, donkeys, pigs and chickens). You cannot be in a rush to get to your destination - besides you have reached the Transkei, slow down and take in the gorgeous landscape.
A few days in the Transkei is a perplexing experience: you feel like you have been away for ages but at the same time you feel like you arrived yesterday. It is the type of place that draws you in and makes you want to stay forever.
